Our accommodation was located just off Rufino Tamayo, north of the Centro. The location was slightly more residential and away from the hustle and bustle of Plaza del Carmen but still close enough to the action.

A seven-hour-long bus ride requires one thing: tacos. By chance, we passed a street food stall run by an "Abuelita" en route to our accommodation. The stall had a large queue of locals, and the aromas of the tacos wafted through the air and straight to our rumbling stomachs. As a general rule of thumb on the trip, if the street food station looks well-run and has a queue, we will stop and try it. We opted for two chicken and two chorizo enchiladas. The enchiladas were bursting with flavour; melted cheese oozed out of the ends with each bite, and the marinated meats filled in each wrap tickled each of our taste buds. If you're planning a visit to Oaxaca, these enchiladas require your time and attention (See photo below).

The afternoon's activity consisted of a visit to the Temple of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. You don't necessarily have to be a history buff to enjoy this old convent, but it does help. For those of you who aren't into history, I advise you to skip to the next paragraph. For those of you who are, let me break this place down for you. Dating back to 1551, this temple is a classic example of New Spanish Baroque architecture (Mexican Baroque), exemplified by its stone walls, ornate facades, gilded altarpieces, and intricate decorations. The temple, steeped in history, also provided some exemplary photo ops. Ideal for those seeking to capture alternative content to the classic Oaxacan colours, plates of mole, glasses of Mezcalitas and street food vendors. For 80 pesos, I would highly recommend it. But don't just take my word for it. Catholic Pope John Paul II visited the temple in 1979, and I'm sure if Instagram existed back then, he would have had a right lark on his stories.

That night we headed out for our first taste of mole. Mole is a traditional Mexican sauce made from a blend of dried chillies, spices, nuts, and sometimes chocolate, with numerous regional variations like mole poblano (a chocolate-infused sauce from Puebla), mole negro (a dark, smoky sauce from Oaxaca), mole verde (a green herb-based sauce), mole rojo (a red chilli sauce), mole amarillo (a yellow chilli sauce), and mole manchamantel (a sauce featuring chorizo and pineapple), each offering a unique flavour that reflects its region. After deliberation, we settled on Coquina Hua Xha, a small family-run restaurant just a five-minute walk from our apartment. Nikki and I opted for the local mole negro, an earthy smoky black sauce infused with dark chocolate, served with a single chicken thigh and small portion of rice. It was a new flavour to our palates, one that intrigued and left us wanting more. Although, upon review, we are not sure if this was because of the dish or the small portion size. The jury's out on this one.

As we were in Oaxaca for two nights, we only had time for one day excursion. We opted for a visit to 'Hierve el Agua', two petrified waterfalls complete with bathing pools; this seemed like the ideal spot to plan our day trip. Initially, we looked at booking the trip through Airbnb Experiences, as the waterfalls were located 70 km east of Oaxaca City and we were unsure our limited Spanish would help us reach our destination without a guide. However, post bank inspection, it seemed like we had little choice but to give it a go alone. So, the night before our trip, Nikki and I researched an authentic way of enjoying this experience. If, like us, you are looking to do this in a more affordable way, it's not as challenging as you'd think.

The next morning we headed downtown to the bus station to catch the 50-minute autobus ride to the neighbouring town of Mitla (25 pesos pp). Cutting through the suburbs of the city, you see a different side to Oaxaca, a side full of local grafters, stray dogs and mezcal factories. Like-minded travellers hop on the bus as it passes through the town, all stocked up with bathing suits, towels and Cheetos; together, we head out into the desert in search of the cool respite of Hierve el Agua. Upon arrival in Mitla, the driver announces the stop to catch the camioneta up to the waterfalls. The camionetas are open-backed trucks with small benches; groups of up to seven are then bundled into the back (60 pesos pp). Sat inside the camionetas, you feel like you're in one of the old war films they show around Christmas time. Peering out the back of the truck as it heads up a dusty track, you get the impression you're in ‘The Guns of Navarone’ or an 'SAS Rogue Hero'. What you're not made aware of as you climb up the dusty track is the severity of the incline and the sheer drop as you pass each hairpin turn. Despite the crumbling roads and the lack of barriers, the truck rattles on for another twenty minutes or so before it reaches its intended destination.

Upon arrival, you pay an entrance fee of (50 pesos pp), then head through the assortment of souvenir shops, fruit vendors and bars until you reach the waterfalls. There is a path around the back of the waterfalls that takes you to view the secondary waterfall. It is suggested to do this small trek first; although it's not a great distance, it is steep, so it is best advised to do this first to work up a sweat before you cool down in the bathing pools. For the trek, it is also advised to bring water and sun cream as the trees on the trek offer little protection from the sun. Post-hike, there are cabins for you to change in before you bathe in the mineral-rich waters of the waterfall. Note for the return journey: the camionetas will only depart once full of travellers, so make sure you head to the collection point when it looks busy or you could be stuck there a while.

Frequently during our time in Oaxaca, we found ourselves at Casa Antonieta, a boutique hotel located in the heart of the city. The hotel doubles as a metropolitan coffee shop (Cafe Muss) on the ground floor, serving fresh pastries and fine coffee, and features a rooftop bar on the top floor (Cafe Ama). On the rooftop, you’ll find overflowing plant pots, terracotta tiles, and Amá Terraza. During the day, it’s an ideal spot for enjoying your first coffee of the morning and taking in the views, remote working, or indulging your inner travel writer. In the evenings, Nikki and I spent several hours here sipping cold cervezas, playing Gin Rummy, and indulging in guacamole. The relaxed atmosphere and stunning views made it one of our favourite hangouts in Oaxaca. If you’re in town, make sure to visit for "Buena onda" (Good vibes).